Duration: Approximately 9 km, 3 hours.
In the commune of Moëlan-sur-Mer, this circular walk links two very distinct landscapes: the inland countryside around Kerdoualen, and the rocky coastline stretching from Trénez to the mouth of the Bélon at Kerfany. A route with a thousand facets, with the sea as its guiding thread.
The walk starts at Trénez beach, where a curious English double-decker bus, converted into a restaurant with sea views and open during the summer season, stands proudly: L’Oxy More. It’s the perfect spot to linger and extend your outing once you’ve completed the loop, with the beach and the sea horizon as a backdrop. Opposite, at low tide, a ford even allows you to reach Île Percée, a site formerly fortified by the German occupiers during the Second World War: the piers of the bridge that once linked the beach to the blockhouses are still visible.
The scenery: two contrasting atmospheres
On the outward journey, the path moves away from the shore and heads inland towards the hamlet of Kerdoualen. The landscape becomes more intimate: narrow country lanes, low stone walls, and hamlets typical of the Moëlan region, with occasional glimpses of slate-roofed houses and walled gardens. It’s a peaceful walk, sheltered from the wind, before heading down the Bélon towards Kerfany beach, at the mouth of the ria.
On the return journey, the route follows the GR34 coastal path – the famous ‘customs officers’ path’ – which runs as close as possible to the coast: passing by the ‘grey beach’, then offering a view of the Amer (that stone landmark traditionally used to guide sailors), before reaching Gorgen Cove and then Trénez. This section, which is a bit more challenging, alternates between rocky outcrops, small coves and unobstructed views of the ocean and Île Percée.
The vegetation along the route
- On the inland section (towards Kerdoualen): classic Breton bocage — living hedgerows, chestnut and oak trees lining the path, embankments covered in ferns and brambles, meadows enclosed by low stone walls.
- On the coastal path (GR34): coastal heathland resistant to sea spray — gorse, heather, broom, short, wind-swept grasses, with a few twisted maritime pines clinging to the rocky overhangs.
- Around Kerfany and the ria: more humid vegetation at the bottom of the valley, with reeds and willows near the small streams that flow into the Bélon.
- Around Trénez and Île Percée: low dunes and low-growing plants adapted to sand and salt, between aerohaline grasslands and lichen-covered rocks.
What you’ll discover along the way
- Trénez beach and, opposite, Île Percée, accessible on foot at low tide, with the remains of a blockhouse dating from the Second World War.
- The hamlet of Kerdoualen and its narrow country lanes.
- Kerfany Beach, at the mouth of the Bélon, with the Pointe de Kerfany, the war memorial at Kerfany-les-Pins and the neighbouring memorial stones. In the distance, on the Aven, Port-Manech Beach.
- The GR34 coastal path (the ‘customs officers’ path’), the ‘grey beach’, L’Amer and Gorgen Cove on the way back to Trénez.
In summary
A loop with two distinct character: a peaceful walk through the wooded countryside on the way out, and a more exotic return journey along the customs officers’ path, taking in coves, coastal heathland and panoramic views of the ocean. It’s a chance to enjoy both the inland countryside and the open sea in a single outing.
And to round off the walk, head back to the starting point, Trénez beach, where the terrace at L’Oxy More awaits with its sea view: a well-deserved break before setting off again.
